Nikon EN-EL3e false low-battery warning problem. Possible solutions.

It's been almost a year since I wrote the original article (here) on the notorious EN-EL3e False Low Battery Warning (FLBW), and I am still unaware of any official responses from Nikon on this issue, nor of any suggestions on how to solve it - even if only temporarily.
If you are aware of any official Nikon response, I would appreciate it if you could point me to it.

Possible Solutions

After an extensive review of suggested solutions, by users here and on other forums, here are some ideas that might work for you:
1 – Using genuine Nikon batteries and not third party rip-offs helps, but is no guarantee that you will not fall victim to FLBW, either now or at some point in the future. Many users report this problem after having had their cameras for several months.
The D200 and D700 appear to be the least affected; the large majority of users have a D300(S), D90 or D80.
2 – Update firmware if you have not done so already. Users report solving the problem after updating to the latest firmware, especially in the case of the D300.

3 – Even though some users tell me: “don't tell me to clean the contacts”, CLEAN the contacts on your lens(es), body and battery.
It is the first step in narrowing down on possible causes.
4 – Although Li-Ion batteries like the EN-EL3e supposedly do not suffer from “memory-effect”, fully discharging them is still recommended.
There are more than a few users who are reporting this problem after repeatedly and/or cumulatively charging the battery without ever fully discharging it.
For the moment, fully discharging and then charging is Nikon's only formal recommendation for solving FLBW.
The fact that many users report problems after owning the camera for some time, appears to be another indication that cumulative charging may be part of the problem.
The easiest way to fully discharge is connecting the camera with a low battery to the computer and waiting until if turns off after depleting it.

IMPORTANT: make sure you monitor the process and disconnect the camera as soon as it shuts down. Deep discharging may render your battery useless.

5 – Removing the battery from the camera for an extended period of time – an hour or more – in some cases appears to cause a spontaneous “reset” after which the problem disappears (at least temporarily).
6 – Nikon and third party optically stabilized (VR, OS) lenses are definitely suspect.
The most mentioned troublemaker by far is the AF-S 70-200 f/2.8G VR Nikkor, but people also mention other VR Nikkors as well as Tamron and Sigma OS lenses.
If you are experiencing the FLBW problem with a particular lens, the first step is un-mounting and then re-mounting it to see if that solves the problem.
Some lenses may show a little movement after the “click”; try to turn it until it blocks or – alternatively – leave it immediately after the click-in to see if this makes any difference.
If not, un-mount the lens again, while simultaneously removing the battery to “reset” the camera.
If this is still not sufficient, swap the lens for any other model and check if the FLBW is now gone. With a bit of “luck” the camera will work properly and you may have identified the source of your troubles.

IMPORTANT: remember to always turn the camera off before changing lenses. If you are not in the habit of doing so, make it a habit.

Summary

If you are affected by FLBW, there are a few things you may do to avoid it, and a few things you can do to try fix it once “hit”.

To avoid:

1 – Update firmware to the last available.
ONLY do this if you have this problem. If you don't and your camera is functioning normally: why fix something that isn't broken?
2 – Make it a habit to always fully discharge your batteries, that is: until the low battery warning comes on and the camera refuses to fire.
Get a spare or a battery pack (MB-D10, MB-D90, etc,) so you can swap batteries in case you have to.
3 – Keep the contacts on your camera body, lenses, batteries clean and always use their respective protective caps when they are not in use.
4 – Remove the battery from the camera if it is not going to be used for an extended period, and store it with its protective cap in a dry place.

Once hit, in this order:

1 – Turn the camera off and on.
2 – Un-mount and re-mount the lens.
3 – Un-mount the lens, remove the battery. Wait a couple of minutes and then re-mount the lens and insert the battery.
4 – Swap batteries.
5 – Swap lenses.
6 – Switch cameras...

Even if a visitor here once commented that he had difficulty imagining the relation between a malfunctioning camera/lens and a “shorting” battery, fact remains that FLBW appears not to be related with shorting or faulty contacts, but rather with a more complex combination of factors, such as a possible conflict between certain cameras, (VR) lens software and/or intelligent battery management.

I surely hope these suggestions help at least a few people. If they do, I would appreciate it very much if you were to share your experiences.

DISCLAIMER:

I wrote this article researching solutions that worked for other users. If they don't work for you, don’t blame me.
I have no personal experience with FLBW; the EN-EL3e that came with my D200 is still alive and kicking after 4 years and 30.000 takes...

See also:
Nikon D300, D90 & D80 EN-EL3e false low-battery warning problem.